1 – Gelligroes Mill
Probably dating from the early 17th Century Gelligroes Mill was once home to the poet Aneurin Jones (Aneurin Fardd) (1822-1904) but is best known locally as the ‘Titanic mill’ thanks to Artie Moore.
Born in 1887, Artie lived in the mill and was involved in an accident that meant his leg had to be amputated. During his recovery he became more and more fascinated by the emerging science of radio.
He built a number of machines and contraptions at his home, and even used two wooden lamp posts to help pick up signals.
He quickly became well-known in the area for his creations and in 1911 he appeared on the front page of the Daily Sketch after he intercepted the Italian government’s declaration of war on Libya.
But it was intercepting the Titanic distress signal that propelled Artie to fame and fortune.
On the evening that the huge ship crashed in to the iceberg, 24-year-old Artie picked up the faint mayday call in Morse code.
The first message read: “CQD Titanic 41.44N 50.24W”.
QD was what ships used before SOS, which had only just been invented.
As the ship became more and more desperate it sent out: “CQD CQD SOS de MGY [the code for the Titanic] Position 41.44N 50.24W. Require immediate assistance. Come at once. We have struck an iceberg. Sinking.”
The messages kept coming in quick succession.
The next read: “We are putting the passengers off in small boats” said another. “Women and children in boats, cannot last much longer – Come as quickly as possible; our engine-room is filling up to the boilers.”
The final said: “Then, finally: “SOS SOS CQD CQD Titanic. We are sinking fast. Passengers are being put into boats. Titanic.”
After the messages stopped Artie ran to the local police station to relay the news.
With the Titanic being widely regarded as unsinkable and one of the most advanced ships ever built, the police laughed in his face.
But days later Artie was proved right when the tragedy appeared on newspaper front pages across the world.
At the time one newspaper reported: “A young boy from the valleys of south Wales has witnessed through the modern invention of wireless the death of a famous ship thousands of miles away.”
2 – Nant y Draenog Reservoir
As mining grew in the Sirhowy Valley in the late 1800s so did the need for water. Nant y Draenog Reservoir was dug to supply water to Wattsville, Risca and later Cwmfelinfach. The filterbeds you can see below the dam wall cleaned the water before it was piped to these villages. It closed in 1979 when Llandegfedd Reservoir began to supply the area.
3 – Twyn Tudor Motte
A scheduled monument is the remains of a motte, a military stronghold built during the medieval period. It lay deep within the upland portion of the former Welsh kingdom of Gwynllwg, annexed by the Clares in the mid-13th century, although it is unclear whether it represents a short-lived relic of the initial Norman invasion of the area, a Welsh seat or a later Clare work.
4- Church of St Tudor
Church has a Celtic dedication and a surrounding roughly rectangular churchyard. Twyn Tudor medieval motte is adjacent to S. Church is first mentioned c 1102 but all surviving masonry appears later. N arcade suggests a later medieval enlargement of the nave. Church was severely damaged by fire in 1800 and was restored and re-opened in 1820; much existing fabric appears to date from this time; further restored in 1906-7 – date of barrel roof – with roof repaired in 1960s with composite tiles; these are being replaced by Welsh slates and leadwork in 1990s. Plans to augment bells by installing peal from St Luke’s Abercarn in early C21. Churchyard was cleared in C19, as revealed by older yews which stand on mounds and the lack of early tombstones. Before the eventual creation of separate parishes in the later C19, Mynyddislwyn parish church served a large community of rural farmsteads and early industrial development in the valleys.
5 – Mynydd y Lan
Mynydd y Lan is a 381m flat-topped hill with commanding views to Newport, Cardiff the Bristol channel and England on a clear day South and the central Brecon Beacons North. Despite being surrounded by busy towns the hill remains a small slice of wilderness and is largely covered in thick, tufty grass and some bracken in places.
The views East and West are substantial and gives you a real understanding of the topography of this part of South Wales. Almost always a peaceful hill with little chance of bumping into others.
6 – Cwmcarn Forest Drive
Cwmcarn Forest Drive combines multiple cycle routes, gentle walks and hiking trails with a scenic hillside drive dotted with parks and sculpture trails. The Buzzard Way takes you gently up the valley and past the visitor centre where you can enjoy a range of hot and cold drinks and food. The path then continues alongside a stream to a crystal clear pond and an ice cold dipping spot used by brave people all year round as a plunge pool.
The Buzzard Way then heads up a track that crosses the winding scenic drive until you start the final ascent of Twmbarlwm.
7 – Twmbarlwm
One of the highlights of The Buzzard Way (and indeed the Cambrian Way which also crosses this majestic summit) Twmbarlwm is a 419m hill with commanding views over the Severn estuary. The summit is also the site of a Bronze-age cairn, Iron-age hill fort, Roman beacon and early Norman motte and bailey castle.
It is truly one of the finest hills in South Wales for the quality of the walks up to and around the hill as well as the breath-taking views in every direction. This is a hill that is visible an instantly recognisable as you wind your way around The Buzzard Way, giving you an understanding of the distance you’ve travelled and where you’re located in the South Wales valleys.
8 – Mynydd Twyn-glas
The highest point on part 1 of The Buzzard Way, Mynydd Twyn-Glas is one of the very highest points this far South in Wales at 472m. Extensive views and a photogenic trig point make this a good spot to pause to take in the views and look back along the long ridgeway to Twmbarlwm hillfort.